Introduction
NO MEZCAL IS ILLEGAL.
Some may be undocumented. Others may lack pedigree. But no mezcal is alien to the palate of humanity.
And while mezcal is not as famous as tequila, there lies its appeal. It is an artisanal elixir, enjoyed in the quiet gatherings of friends, the raucous celebrations of mountain villages, the contemplative offerings to the gods.
Mezcal has a history that goes back more than half a millennium, older than tequila. The grandfather of agave spirits, mezcal is a state of anticipation. It reflects the indigenous sensibilities of the peoples of Mexico and the technical expertise of European immigrants. Distillation was introduced to Mexico by the Spanish in the early 1500s. Before then, the Maya, Mixtec and Zapotec peoples used agave to make a beer-like beverage that contained 3% alcoholic content.
It was technological innovation that made mezcal as we know it today possible. And it is the variety of agave plants from which mezcal can be made that allows for it exuberant variety. Whereas tequila can only be made from 100% blue agave, mezcal can be made from one of 25 recognized agave varieties, provided they are harvested from specific regions of Mexico. Mezcal is only mezcal if the agave comes from one of five states in southern Mexico, with Oaxaca being the principal source.
Most artisans use a blend of agaves, with agave espandin being the preferred choice. The use of various agaves, however, allows each distiller to create a signature product, with its own unique scent and taste.
The two other characteristics that distinguish mezcal from tequila are derived from the distillation process, and the artisanal nature of the final product. Whereas tequila is steam cooked and distilled in column stills, mezcal is roasted in wood-fired pits and distilled in small batches using copper stills. And while tequila is only required to use 51% agave spirits (and may be bottled anywhere), mezcal must contain 100% agave (and be bottled at the source). Mezcal has its own Domination of Origin Status and certification, which is not the case with tequila.
That mezcal comes from the south of Mexico also allows it to be paired with two other delicacies associated with southern Mexico: robust coffee and delectable chocolates.
Louis E.V. Nevaer 