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Before you decide if Mérida is right for you, shouldn’t you spend some time here? This is an ideal week-long stay in Mérida, one that is designed to let you get a feel for the place, the people and the options available to you, should you decide to live in this splendid city!
“The cultural scene in Mérida is top notch! The soul must be fed and Merida serves up a stellar menu of arts, dance, symphony, jazz, recitals, poetry readings, theatre, cinema, markets, parks, fairs and bazaars. The government and local residents patronize the arts. Culture is important and art galleries are flourishing. Every night of the week there is something ‘happening’ in Merida. Street dances or singing, art openings, wine tasting, music recitals, poetry readings, discussion groups, professional baseball and soccer games, annual festivals, color and fun. … In the year 2000, Merida was named the first American Capital of Culture,” Mitch Keenan, proprietor, Mexico International
For most of the 20th century, Mérida was the gateway to the Maya World, and this was the city that was served by Pan Am World Airways. It has hosted everyone from Katherine Hepburn to the Duke and Duchess of Windsor. Cancún changed all that, for the better or worse depends on your perspective. But the wonderful things that made Mérida a treasure then still makes Mérida an exceptional cultural Mecca today. It is, in essence, quite possible to spend a week in this city and be fascinated by the wealth of activities and day-trips available.
Seven Days in Mérida
Day 1: Upon arrival, it’s time to get your bearings and enjoy the city for the cultural treasure that it is. Start by going to the Main Square, also known as the Zócalo. This is the heart of the colonial city, flanked by the oldest cathedral built on the mainland of the American continent and the Casa Montejo, the grand architectural gem that was the city’s founder’s home. The Cathedral (Catedral de San Ildefonso) was begun in 1561 and completed in 1598. It celebrated its 450th anniversary in 2011, and an exhaustive narrative of the cathedral’s history was published to commemorate this milestone. Mérida: Biografía de Una Catedral, written by Miguel Bretos, is the authoritative book on the cathedral. One of the more interesting facts about the cathedral is the crucifix, known as the Cristo de la Unidad (Christ of Unity), which symbolized the reconciliation between Christians and the Maya. Throughout much of of Latin America, rather than focusing on the negative aspects of the encounters between the peoples of the Old and New worlds – How can blame be assigned to a value-neutral fact that, centuries before science discovered the existence of germs and bacteria, were the culprits in the massive loss of life throughout the continent in the first century following contact between the peoples of the Old World and the New World? As a result, there is a consensus on the positive aspect: the arrival of Europeans brought Christianity to the New World, and the promise of everlasting life to First Peoples of the Western Hemisphere. Make of that what you will, but this is how the social contract works in Latin America for the most part.
Of Mérida’s cathedral, the noted architectural historian Richard Perry writes, “During the infamous noche triste of September 24, 1915, an anticlerical mob inflamed by misplaced revolutionary zeal burst into Mérida cathedral and set about destroying its priceless contents. These included the gilded 18th century main altarpiece, which, along with several other side altars, was ripped from its supports in the cathedral apse, stripped of its gold leaf, crudely dismembered, then carried out into the street and burned. Only a few decorative fragments survived the destruction, notably a pair of beautifully crafted relief panels from one retablo illustrating scenes from the Nativity of Christ. Both panels, carved from mahogany and painted in exquisite estofado style, have been recently restored. One of these panels, showing the Adoration of the Shepherds, is currently displayed in the Mérida City Museum, located just beside the Cathedral. The second relief, shown above and now in the collection of the museum at Dzibilchaltún, illustrates the Adoration of the Magi, rendered as an affecting folk tableau. The Holy Family is shown facing the richly costumed Three Kings. The figures are simply but sympathically portrayed against a minimal but conventional classical background. Note the folkloric touch of the heads of the ox and ass, poking out between columns reminiscent of the cathedral portals.”
It is a breath-taking structure, one that rivals the grandest cathedrals of Europe.
As for Casa Montejo, Richard Perry describes it as, “the finest civil example of the Spanish Plateresque style in Mexico or indeed in the New World.” He then elaborates: “The lower facade surrounding the doorway is outlined in elegant Renaissance fashion, with fluted columns, classical entablatures and coffered paneling. The inner panels are neatly carved with grotesques, and enlivened with inscribed plaques and medallions enclosing sculpted heads. The two large flanking busts above the doorway are traditionally thought to be portraits of the Adelantado Montejo and his wife. Atop this decorous scheme, however, a frieze of horned cherubs and grotesque animal heads strikes a jarring note, and above the doorway, a bowed figure wearing sheepskins holds up the corbelled second floor balcony, which sets the fantastical tone of the upper tier. While contemporary with or later than the lower facade, the more sculptural upper tier nevertheless harks back to the medieval and Moorish antecedents of the Plateresque, and although the stonecarving is less accomplished, it holds greater sculptural and textural interest. A large shield of the Montejo coat of arms stands above the window surmounted by an armorial helmet upon which an eagle is perched, signifying the heroic nobility of the owner. The escutcheon is set against a stone tapestry of stylized floral motifs hung with rattle-like fruits. Giant figures of Spanish halberdiers flank the entire upper level, their feet resting upon the heads of the vanquished - popularly thought to be Mayan Indians but more likely demonic heads in the European tradition.” (Please note that Richard Perry has written a wonderful book on the colonial architecture of the Yucatán, Maya Missions, and it is well worth getting a copy.)
In 2011, the building, owned by Banamex, was restored and opened as a museum. It is a must visit, especially since one sees the grandeur and proportion of the architectural style and the integrity of the building. Known as the Casa de Cultura Banamex, the building is open to the public and showcases rotating and permanent exhibitions that are lovingly curated by the staff. One of the more engaging aspects of the Casa Montejo is that their gift store highlights the artisanal handicrafts of Maya who participate in the Fundación de Haciendas en el Mundo Maya, A.C., a nonprofit organization dedicated to nurturing artisanal excellence in craftsmanship and bringing these works to the market. Website: www.museocasamontejo.com.
The other building of note is the Governor’s Palace, which is the seat of State Government, and is open to the public during normal business hours. The current building was constructed in 1892 on the site of the former palace of colonial governors. The grand building is characterized by murals painted by Fernando Castro Pacheco. Completed in 1978, the artwork depicts the history of Yucatán. The murals begin with two grand paintings titled Social Evolution of Man in Yucatán, which are based on the Maya teachings found in the Chilam Balam, their sacred myths. These works depict prophesies that a race of mankind would arrive from the east and conquer their land. As you climb the grand staircase, there grand murals representing the Maya cosmology, in which each of the four cardinal points are associated with a specific color and myths. According to the Maya, the gods made several versions of mankind, none of which were entirely satisfactory, until the present race of humanity: We are made of corn, which is nurturing, and in our ability to love and create culture, we are pleasing to the gods.
The second floor is graced by additional murals, depicting the history of Yucatán from the colonial period to the mid-twentieth century. To the credit of the people of Yucatán, painting accurately depict shameful periods of history, such as Guerra de Castas, which tells the tragedy of the War of the Castes (Maya versus European) during the second half of the 19th century, and Venta de Indios, a brief time when European colonial elites sold the Maya as slaves to Cuban slave traders, beginning in 1849. These murals, housed in the History Room, looks over the Main Square, and it is a magnificent vantage point from which to contemplate the street life below.
If you cross the street towards the Cathedral, you will notice a glass-enclosed atrium on the south side that has public art. This is the new gateway to the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo, known as the MACAY. It is housed in the a building originally constructed for as the residence of the Archbishop, but has been repurposed as a contemporary museum, showcasing both a permanent exhibition of noted local artists, as well as revolving exhibitions of contemporary art. Website: www.macay.org.
With these three magnificent structures and the MACAY museum viewed, you are ready to take in Mérida’s city life. Walking north 60th Street you will encounter the Church of the Third Order (also known as the Iglesia de Jesús), the small park with a statue to Motherhood, and the beautiful Opera House, the Teatro Peón Contreras. Opposite the opera house is the main campus of the Universidad Autónoma de Yucatán, known as UADY. The Teatro Peón Contreras was built between 1900 and 1908 and reflects the craze for all things Italian during that decade. Its main staircase is of Carrara marble, and there are frescoes by Italian artists who were invited to decorate the interior of the building. The theater has an active schedule, hosting symphonies, dramatic recitals, operas and musicals. It is also the venue for public events, from graduation ceremonies to political ceremonies. It is always a good idea to check out the schedule, since local and state governments take an active role in promoting culture. It’s not unusual to find performances ranging from the Prague symphony to Cuba’s National Ballet throughout the year. The programming is exceptional, and the ticket prices are government-subsidized.
A break might be in order. Be aware that, as is the case the world over, where tourists stroll, tourist traps abound. Fortunately, there are a few recommendations on places to eat, or have coffee, depending on your mood. For coffee, try Café Pop (Calle 57 #501, between Calle 60 and 62 Street) for coffee, breakfast and simple lunches. The service in the interior garden of the Hotel Casa del Balam (on the corner of Calle 60 and Calle 57, just across the street from the Teatro Peón Contreras) for breakfast or lunch, is exceptional. If you want a more extensive lunch, or supper, there are three recommendations. La Chaya, serving Yucatecan food (on the corner of the Calle 62 and Calle 57); Restaurante Bar Amaro, which boasts and extensive vegetarian menu (located on Calle 59 #507, between Calle 60 and 62 Street); and Pancho’s, which serves the kind of Mexican food most foreigners associate with Mexico (located on Calle 59 #509, between Calle 60 and 62 Street). If all you want something refreshing, right on the north side of the Main Square is Sorbetería Colón, which has sorbets and sweets. It is consistently written up in publications such as Food & Wine and Travel & Leisure (located on Calle 62 #500, under the arches just west of the Governor’s Palace).
To continue getting these “must see” sights out of the way, you can continue walking north along Calle 60 until you reach Calle 47, then head east to Paseo de Montejo. Or you can take a taxi straight to the Museum of Anthropology on Paseo de Montejo.
The Museo Regional de Antropología e Historia is housed in the massive Palacio Cantón, which took two years to build (1909-1911). The home of General Francisco Cantón Rosado (1833-1917), the house is testament to the wealth that flowed through Yucatán during the last decades of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century, most of it arising from the sisal (henequen fiber) exports to the world. Today, the museum provides a wonderful introduction to the Maya civilization. The permanent collection is sweeping in scope, from massive funerary urns and imposing stone monoliths decorated with hieroglyphics, to delicate jewelry and items made of jade and obsidian. The displays of ornately-decorated ceramic pottery and history of the Maya calendar are exceptional. The museum includes a vast historical record of the Yucatán’s history, from the earliest arrival of the Maya to the region to contemporary Yucatán. There is one period that is remarkably missing: the colonial period. Call it political correctness, or ambivalence, but the museum’s extensive holdings on colonial artifacts are stored away from public view, and this is the one criticism that can be levied against it.
After the museum, enjoy an extended stroll along Paseo de Montejo, Mérida’s grandest boulevard. There was a time when Mérida had more millionaires in the world than any other city (1890s and the 1990s), and it was known as the “Paris of the West.” The grand mansions that still line the boulevard were built by the landed hacendados whose control of the sisal industry – known as the “Green Gold” – brought unimaginable wealth to the region. Many of those fortunes have long been squandered, although there are some Yucatecan families who still live off the fortunes built more than a century ago. Almost all the remaining mansions have been bought by large corporations for their regional offices, and many of the gardens were sold off to build smaller “commercial” centers. The slow migration of well-off residents to the northern suburbs that ring the city being what it is, it’s a shame that many of the commercial life along the Paseo de Montejo is lacking. What could be a vibrant district of cafes, restaurants, shops and galleries is a melancholy venue of “For Rent” signs and closed storefronts. Most of the commercial activity is found where Avenida Colón and Avenida Cupules run into Paseo de Montejo, since that’s where the Hyatt, Holiday Inn and Fiesta Americana hotels are located. A few blocks further north, the Monument to the Flag is surrounded by a few restaurants of interest.
As you take in this beautiful boulevard, depending on which end you find yourself, and what you are in the mood for, consider the Hotel Casa San Angel and the boutique hotel Rosas & Xocolate for a drink or meal. If you are at the northern end of the boulevard, Slavia or Cubaro are recommended restaurants, and so is Tobago for coffee or a drink.
Afterwards, it’s time to head back to your hotel or B&B. This first day provided a comprehensive understanding of Mérida, its history and it makes one wonder how such a special place has managed to remain so hidden from the world. In the days to come, you will discover many hidden gems!
Day 2: This is the day when you can get the unique cultural institutions out of the way, an opportunity to expand your perspective and take in the rich cultural heritage of the Yucatan peninsula. First stop is La Quinta Montes Molina, originally known as Villa Beatriz, located on Paseo de Montejo. The mansion was built by don Aurelio Portuondo y Barceló, a Cuban immigrant to Mérida, during the Porfirio Díaz period (1876-1911). The building, with its lavish furnishings, including Tiffany stained glass windows, was preserved and this structure is one of the finest examples of the architecture and furnishings of the period. This home is larger than the Frick Museum in New York City! Tours in English are available Monday through Friday at 9 a.m., 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. Admission is $50 pesos. Website: www.LaQuintaMM.com.
Afterwards, hop in a taxi to Barrio Santiago to visit two extraordinary cultural centers. The first is Casa Catherwood, which houses a complete set of Frederick Catherwood’soriginal lithographs of the Maya ruins and ceremonial centers published in 1844. Catherwood is the architect and illustrator who accompanied John Lloyd Stephens, who wrote the best-selling Incidents of Travel, in the first half of the 19th century. If you’ve traveled this far, you owe it to yourself to take in Catherwood’s stunning lithographs, especially if you intend on visiting any of the ruins. To see how the Maya ceremonial centers were when they were discovered in the first half of the 19th century, and how much has been restored is an extraordinary comparison. Casa Catherwood itself is the only gallery in Mérida that has been featured in Hemispheres, the in-flight magazine of United Airlines, and in the Wall Street Journal. Address is Calle 59 #572, between Calle 72 and 74 Street, Centro. Admission is $50 pesos. Website: www.casa-catherwood.com.
Housed adjacently is Casa del Chocolate, Mérida’s only cultural and educational center devoted to chocolate! With a wide selection of books on chocolate, as well as artisanal items made from the cacao tree – writing journals made of cacao tree paper, lamps whose shades are made from cacao leaves, spa products made from cacao butter – this has a Discovery-channel worthy documentary (52 minutes long) that’s played in various languages, including Spanish, English and French. Did you know that the Ki Xocolatl, brand of chocolates sold at the Casa del Chocolate, are the best-selling chocolates sold at the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, D.C.? Well, now you know. Address is Calle 59 #572-A, between Calle 72 and 74, Centro. Admission is free.
This is a great opportunity to explore Santiago, with its charming park and beautiful church. After taking in the area, there is a taxi stand on the corner of Calle 59 and Calle 72, which is very convenient.
You are ready for lunch, and there are wonderful choices available, and with what you’ve seen at the Quinta Montes Molina, Casa Catherwood and Casa del Chocolate, there will be plenty for engaging conversation. After lunch, do what Yucatecans do after their midday meal: retire to your hotel for a siesta, or spend some time in a pool. This rest will recharge your batteries for the rest of the day, which should begin around 4 p.m. or 5 p.m.
Start by treating yourself to some wonderful sorbets at Sorbetería Colón, one located on the Main Square and the other on Paseo de Montejo. Then make your way to Santa Ana and, inspired by this morning’s cultural immersion, head over to 100% Mexico, housed in the lobby of the Hotel Casa San Angel, located a Paseo de Montejo #1, Remate. This store, which has extraordinary handicrafts from every state in Mexico, is owned by Homa Abhari, and you will surely find something extraordinary. The shop also has been extended to include a collection of Pineda Covalin’s silk scarves, shawls, purses and other items. Website: www.hotelcasasanangel.com. Afterwards, walk over to Tataya Gallery where Francois Valcke has a shop with a fascinating selection of works by contemporary Mexican artists and artisans, as well as a good number of Cuban painters. Collectors from New York, Los Angeles and as far away as London routinely drop by to make purchases, and they are experts of shipping anywhere. Address is Calle 60 #409, between Calle 45 and 47 Street. Website: www.tataya.com.mx. The final place to stop is Peregrina, an initiative of the State of Yucatan, and endorsed by Casa Catherwood, that is showcasing the work of emerging Yucatecan artisans, this shop has a charming selection of regional handicrafts. Address: Paseo de Montejo, between Calle 41 and 43 Street. Website: www.artesanias.yucatan.gob.mx. While visiting Tataya Gallery and 100% Mexico, you will have an opportunity to explore Santa Ana, with its elevated square built on the ruins of a Maya elite residential compound, and beautiful church built in 1733.
Now you are ready for dinner, drinks, and, depending on the day of the week, one of the free concerts that take place around town. After the musical concert or dinner (or both), call it a night with cocktails at a lobby bar, or at one of the hip restaurants along Prolongación Montejo and Circuito Colonias. The concierge or host at your hotel or B&B can make recommendations based on your personal preferences.
Day 3: The earlier you get out of town, the better it will be! Yes, it’s a day for Indiana Jones meets Chocolate, since today we suggest you visit Uxmal, nearby Maya ceremonial centers, and the Eco-Museo del Cacao before returning to Mérida by way of two Maya towns, where you will enjoy the small-town charm of the contemporary Maya, and a visit to two beautiful haciendas. After a hearty breakfast head out (or be picked up by a driver) and head towards Uxmal.
The Ruta Puuc, or Puuc Route, is a sweeping journey through the Maya heartland, consisting of the sites of Uxmal, Kabah, Sayil, Xlapak and Labná; the Eco-Museo del Cacao; the underground caverns at Loltún; tours of the Maya towns of Ticul and Oxkutzcab; and finally visits to the former haciendas of Ochil and Temozón. Plan on leaving Mérida no later than 8 a.m., and returning around 6 p.m. It’s important that you are prepared: comfortable shoes, a hat, sunscreen, water, loose long-sleeved shirts and insect repellant are necessary. Be sure to tackle Uxmal bright and early, since this will give you an opportunity to enjoy the site before the heat of the day – and busloads of other visitors – arrive.
First stop: Uxmal, pronounced “Oosh-mahl,” is a World Heritage site, and one of the most majestic ceremonial centers of the Maya civilization. There are books written about Uxmal, and you are well-advised to read up on it. Suffice it to say that it became the center for the Puuc region between 850 A.D. and 950 A.D. The most impressive structure is the Pyramid of the Magician which, legend has it, was built in one night. Near this pyramid one finds the Nunnery complex, a vast residential compound believed to have functioned as training facilities for astrologers, priests and the children of the elite. The Governor’s Palace, which occupies five acres, has some of the most compelling mosaic sculpture and arresting representations of the rain god Chaac found anywhere. There are a dozen other structures of note, including ball courts which give a visitor the chance to understand the gradual and natural evolution of Maya architectural scale when this ball court is compared with the one found at Chichén Itzá.
Depending on the time of day, and how much time you spent at Uxmal, one recommendation is to enjoy lemonade, sorbet or a light meal at the Lodge at Uxmal. Part of the Mayaland family of facilities, this lodge serves some of the best meals in the area. If you didn’t pack a lunch, then this is your chance to enjoy something light and delicious before continuing onward.
Second stop: Kabah, an intimate Maya center, it is best known for the “Palace of the Chaac Masks,” and the site is noted for its well-preserved sac-be, or stone road, that linked it to Uxmal. Other buildings of interest are the House of the Witch, the Temple of the Columns and the Codz Pop. The slender stone Arch building is believed to be the “gateway” to the sac-be leading to Uxmal.
Third stop: Sayil, which means, curiously enough, “The Place of Ants.” The most compelling sculpture is the stelae located in a thatch-roof building. Sayil is believed to have been at its apogee during the Terminal Classic period (200 A.D. to 1000 A.D.). Take note of the Great Palace which has an 85-meter façade and is built on a two-terraced platform. Archaeological analysis of ceramic remains confirms extensive trade with the southern cities in the Petén region of Guatemala.
Fourth stop: Xlapak, a modest site consisting of three partially restored pyramids and about a dozen unexcavated mounds. This site is worth a visit because it gives you a new appreciation for the work archaeologists perform when restoring ruins. The notable features of this site are the beautiful karst limestone used in the facades of the structures. It is believed that, lying in the flat valley suitable for agriculture, some of the structures were elite household compounds, as well as ceremonial centers to ensure bountiful harvests.
Fifth stop: Eco-Museo del Cacao. This eco-friendly nature park is the gateway to understanding the Maya civilization through chocolate. Who can argue with that? The Eco-Museo del Cacao represents years of hard work to make this working cacao groves and plantings into a world-class eco-museum and educational center devoted to the cacao tree and its role in the life of the Maya – and chocolate lovers around the world today. The brain child of Eddy Van Belle, the Eco-Museo del Cacao opened to the public in July 2011 and it is winning rave reviews from visitors from around the world. One reason is that it is a partnership that includes master chocolatiers from Belgium and Mexico. Dominque Persoone, perhaps the most well-known Master Chocolatier in Belgium, and Yucatan’s own adopted son Master Chocolatier Mathieu Brees, are intimately involved in planning the Eco-Museo, and their authoritative expertise is well evident.
After visiting three important Maya ceremonial centers, the Eco-Museo brings the Maya fascination and discovery of chocolate to life. Consisting of several thatched-roof structures, the Eco-Museo tells the story of the Maya, the cacao tree and the evolution of chocolate into the delectable delicacy that it is today. Each thatched-roof hut centers on a specific exhibition; they are connected by a winding stone path flanked by tropical foliage and the spices that are used in making chocolate. The first exhibition focuses on the Maya cultivation of cacao and chocolate culture, and how chocolate was used in ceremonies, rituals and daily life of what was considered a sacred ingredient. The second exhibition is a faithful reproduction of a Maya home, including a working outdoors kitchen, an orchid garden and the indigenous melipona bee. Maya bees have no stingers – hence you won’t be stung! – but they play an essential role in the cacao tree’s life cycle. The winding path passes a small enclosure with rare animals, turtles and reptiles, of the region, as well as numerous spice plants – cinnamon, all-spice, cardamom and the vanilla orchid. (If you didn’t know that vanilla comes from an orchid, you do now!)
The next thatch-roof hut is a test kitchen. The exhibition explains how many cacao pods are required to make specific quantities of chocolate, the roasting process, and the various ingredients used to make distinct chocolate foods. But the best part is yet to come! Maya artisanal chocolate makers will demonstrate how cacao is toasted, peeled, ground several times, and how spices are infused to make a chocolate beverage for you. What would you like in your chocolate? Cinnamon? Cardamom? Coffee? Ask, and one of the chocolate makers will prepare the chocolate to your specifications.
Where else in the world are you going to have a Maya artisanal chocolate maker prepare a chocolate beverage for you?
Afterwards, the last area is a petting-zoo, where the prime attraction is the native white-tail deer, which is a diminutive animal. There is a cafeteria, which has salads, Yucatecan foods, and, of course, lots of chocolate! There is also a play area for children, and the chance to wander through the cacao groves in a nearby orchard. A hiking area is also in the works (as this goes to press, ground lights are being installed along the paths), and there is also the opportunity for a horseback ride among the grounds (seasonably available, since several months of the year it is too hot for the horses). A final note: Given that this “jungle” eco-park is located in the heart of the Maya tropical forests, it can be very humid, which is why their gift shop only carries a limited supply of items. (Books, cacao-paper products and other souvenirs wither in the humidity.) In consequence, their entire line of gifts is available in Mérida at the Casa del Chocolate, Calle 59 #572-A, between Calle 72 and 74 Street.
The Eco-Museo del Cacao is one of those treasures that will remain with you for years to come. Website: www.ecomuseodelcacao.com.
Sixth stop: Labná is the next and final archaeological stop. Although it is a small site, Labná is famous for three things. One is its two-storey palace, which boasts one of the longs continuous facades, measuring 120 meters, nearly 400 feet, in the Maya world! Another is its grand sac-be, which links this center to Uxmal, a testament to the audacity of the Maya to build roads through the tropical forests that have managed to survive for centuries after being abandoned. The third reason for notoriety is the Gateway at Labná, an impressive arch that is a passageway between public areas in this ceremonial center. It was immortalized by Frederick Catherwood in the first half of the 19th century, and a lithograph of this Arch is Plate 19 of “Views of Ancient Monuments in Central America, Chiapas & Yucatán” published in 1844. This image is on view at Casa Catherwood in Mérida, and when you compare your own experience of Labná with the image from 1844, it is spellbinding to appreciate the historical legacy that unites us all across the ages.
Now, you have a choice. You can either back-track your steps, returning to Mérida and stopping at the former Haciendas of Ochil and Temozón, or you can continue forward to the caves of Loltún and the Maya towns of Oxkutzcab and Ticul before heading towards the former haciendas. If you are headed back, you are advised to have a late lunch at either Hacienda Ochil or Hacienda Temozón, since you would be returning to Mérida around 3 or 4 p.m., when the city is taking its midday siesta from the heat of the day. If you are moving forging ahead, be sure you have water, since the caves at Loltún are hot.
Seventh stop: Loltún Caves, which are among the most extensive cave systems in Mexico, are an amazing natural wonder. One of the most startling things about the Loltún Caves is that there is archaeological evidence of human occupation dating back 10,000 years, which is astounding. Among the more riveting aspects of the Loltún Caves are the paintings, sculptural images and geometric shapes. There are also “negative” human portraits that are wonderful. What is also fascinating is learning that, apart from primitive tools, the bones of mammoth, bison and jaguars have been found in the cave. Its continuous importance as a sanctuary for people fleeing turmoil is confirmed by the remains of horses – which were brought over by the Spanish – and literature documenting that these caves were used by the Maya in the 19th century to hide during the War of the Castes, a civil war that raged throughout the peninsula.
Eighth stop: Oxkutzcab. From ancient history to the contemporary Maya, indeed! A small town of 22,000 people, Oxkutzcab is known as the “citrus” capital of Yucatán. As you enter the town’s main square, you will be astounded to see so many oranges, lemons, mandarins, grapefruit and other tropical fruits on sale. People from Mérida drive to Oxkutzcab just to load up on citruses, at the town’s market: Mercado de 20 de Noviembre, facing the Templo Ex-Convento de San Francisco. The town dates back to the 1440s, about a century before the arrival of the Spaniards. The city preserves its Maya character, and in fact, the Spaniards recognized it as a regional capital during colonial times, with the Xiu family as its governors. (Legend has it that the Xiu family are the descendants of the last royal family to rule over Uxmal.) Today, the town’s identity is so closely linked with the Maya love for and skill at agriculture that Oxkutzcab is renowned throughout Mexico for its “Orange Festival,” a two-week event that takes place in late October or early November.
Ninth stop: Ticul. After enjoying a glass of orange juice in Oxkutzcab, of course, it’s time to head out to Ticul, a Maya town near Santa Elena. Ticul’s main attractions pay homage to both its Maya and Spanish heritage. On the Spanish side of the town’s identity one finds – what else? – a church. The 18th century church has a stunning stained-glass window over an arched doorway. It is in the simple style for which the Franciscans are renowned. The church is adjacent to the monastery built two centuries before the present church. The other attraction is the Galería de Arte Juanita Canche de Manzanero, who was the mother of Armando Manzanero, one of Mexico’s most famous crooners and songwriters. The gallery has a lovely collection of photographs and paintings, but its very existence is homage to the Maya people. It should be noted that Ticul is famous for its clay pots and pottery. Most of the red clay planters that you see everywhere in Mérida come from Ticul, and many people for Mérida make day trips to Ticul specifically to shop for pottery – and shoes, since the town boasts a vibrant shoe-making cottage industry. If you are loathe to haul back a red clay pot, you might want to opt for a pair of shoes. How many times will you be able to boast that you have a pair of shoes made by a Maya craftsman from Yucatán?
What time is it? It all depends on how long you’ve taken on this route. If it’s getting late, and you think you may want to have overnight accommodations, we recommend the Lodge at Uxmal (www.mayaland.com) and the Flycatcher Inn (website: www.flycatcherinn.com). Either one has terrific rooms at fair prices. A place to eat is The Pickled Onion, run by a rather eccentric Brit (Scottish by birth, long-time Canadian resident) by the name of Valerie Pickles who does more than her fair share to reaffirm the notions most people have about the British. Website: www.thepickledonionyucatan.com.
If it is mid-afternoon, and you are ready to start heading back, then do so by way of two former haciendas: Ochil and Temozón.
Tenth stop: Hacienda San Pedro Ochil. As you head back towards Mérida, follow the signs to the former hacienda San Pedro Ochil. Website: www.haciendaochil.com. Hacienda Ochil participates in the Fundación de Haciendas en el Mundo Maya, A.C.’s program to showcase Maya craftsmanship. After you park your car, you can either walk to the hacienda – an easy 5 or 7 minute stroll – or take the ride on the rails. Along the way you will see a series of “shops” that feature Maya artisans, and their work. Take a look around. The hacienda itself is known for its restaurant that features Maya and Yucatecan cuisine. On weekends, they have a buffet, which allows you an opportunity to enjoy various Maya delicacies that you would otherwise not have an opportunity to sample. The hacienda itself now boasts an amphitheatre that resembles the open areas known throughout the Mediterranean for plays and performances. Of greater interest is the small museum dedicated the henequen (sisal) industry, and it is rather amazing to see the actual machinery (in ruins) that was used at the height of Yucatán’s economic notoriety and wealth.
Eleventh stop: Hacienda Temozón. This hacienda-turned-boutique-resort is amazing. With Lebanese-inspired floors, hand-carved furnishing and somber paintings, it is like stepping back in time. It boasts a world-class full-service spa, and 28 rooms and suites – starting at $375 USD! The grounds are manicured, and there are walking trails, stone pools, stables. Hacienda Temozón gives you a glimpse of the spectacular and opulent lives of the Yucatán’s wealthy during the Gilded Age – and at the unimaginable wealth generated by the export of sisal. Enjoy a cocktail, or a glass of lemonade – or better year, an ice-cold beer. How exclusive is this place? Consider that it has a heliport, for guests who arrive by helicopter. Website: www.thehaciendas.com.
As you head out for the rest of the trip back to Mérida, there will be much to think about on this extraordinary “day trip” that, in many ways, is a trip of a lifetime!
Depending on the time you return to Mérida, and how tired you are, you may be ready for an early evening – or a night on the town. If you are in the mood for a night out, you may want to consider some of the restaurants that are found in Colonia Mexico, or along Prolongación Montejo. Your hotel or B&B will be able to offer suggestions.
Day 4: It’s another day to get out of town, at least for half the day. Less than an hour south of Mérida you can travel back in time, to the 19th century when large plantations, called haciendas, were economic powerhouses in the Yucatán. The agave cactus, known as Agave fourcroydes was the source of henequen, or sisal, fibers from which twine was spun. At a time before petroleum-based plastics had been invented, twine was used in all manner of products, and the henequen industry was so lucrative that Mérida was one of the wealthiest cities in the world during the Edwardian Age. Indeed, Mérida was the first city in Mexico to have electricity!
At the height of production in 1915, more than 1.2 million bales of twine were exported to International Harvester in Chicago, enough to make about 45 million miles of twine. The henequen cactus was the “Green Gold” of the Yucatán. With the introduction of petroleum-based synthetics, however, the henequen industry collapsed within a decade. Abandoned, the haciendas fell into disrepair. It has only been since the late 1980s that they have been restored, often transformed into exclusive boutique hotels and spas.
Hacienda Sotuta de Peón, remarkably, has been restored as a working hacienda, one that gives visitors an idea of the era when these large plantations were the source of tremendous wealth. Visitors are invited to take the mule-drawn ride along wooden rails on the 382-acre plantation, and to see how the henequen was planted, harvested and transformed by workers into sisal fiber, ready to be shipped. The equipment is the original, meticulously restored, and each machine is capable of processing 100,000 cactus leaves in an eight-hour shift. The tour begins in the main house, where the Victorian and Edwardian furniture showcase the conspicuous consumption and opulence of the hacienda owners, who imported much of their furnishings from France, England and the United States. The high-ceilinged rooms and exquisite tiles are breath-taking. After touring the house, the production facilities are next, where every step in the process of turning henequen cactus into twine rope is explained. (Your hotel or B&B can make arrangements, or you can contact them directly: Hacienda Sotuta de Peón, Municipio de Tecoh, Yucatán. Phone: (999) 941-8639, Email: info@haciendatour.com, and website: www.haciendatour.com.)
For Americans, this day trip is particularly poignant: Substitute henequen for cotton and the Maya workers for slaves, and you have an arresting idea of what how the plantations in the American South looked like on the eve of the Civil War! For every modern visitor, Hacienda Sotuta de Peón has a remarkable cenote, or natural sink hole, where you can swim, before enjoying a lavish traditional Yucatecan lunch. The sopa de lima (a citrusy lime soup with chicken), guacamole and poc chuc (a traditional Maya pork dish), are excellent. The Neapolitan flan is famous throughout the region, and the tour concludes with a cool taste of Mexican tequila.
By the time you return to Mérida, it is time for a siesta, rest at your accommodations and a late afternoon swim – or all three. We you are ready for an evening on the town, there is nothing better than checking out the social scene. Depending on the day of the week, there may be a free concert that will get things rolling, or perhaps there is something at Peón Contreras. Mérida city government subsidizes most events at the theater and opera, which means tickets are unbelievably inexpensive. Then perhaps for dinner, you might want to sample some Yucatecan cuisine – most guidebooks have terrific recommendations – or some of the international cuisines that continue to be consistently good. There are a fair number of very good Argentine, Lebanese and Italian restaurants.
Day 5: One more day of adventure, but to the shore! Heading west towards the Bay of Campeche (Gulf of Mexico), one finds the Celestún nature reserve, one of the most cherished national parks in Mexico. Home to more than 300 different species of birds, including the pink flamingo, Celestún is an easy drive from Mérida. Once you arrive there at Celestún, crossing the bridge into town, immediately to your left is the tour area where you can hire a boat trip into the estuaries. The trip is reminiscent of similar rides along the Florida Everglades and Florida Keys – exhilarating and astounding in the sheer variety of birds and water fowl one can see. There are sea hawks, herons, eagles, pelicans, moot-moots and, during the winter months, tens of thousands of migratory birds. And, of course, the flamingo! When birds fly south for the winter, the Yucatán peninsula is the “south” where they winter! Thousands of bird watchers descend on Celestún in January and February each year, and yet the place is remarkably peaceful, the reserve is that expansive.
The Celestún Biosphere Reserve (Parque Natural del Flamenco Mexicano), is a 147,500-acre wetland reserve is unique in that it is both a fresh water and salt water estuary. Fresh water flows up from the underground river systems that run through the limestone landmass, and salt water comes from the Gulf of Mexico. Celestún is also one of the few places in the world where endangered sea turtles come to lay their eggs, and there is an active program to protect, rescue and ensure that the hatchings are released as nature intended.
After the tour, don’t miss the opportunity to enjoy the mangroves by navigating through them in a kayak! This is a great adventure, and it is quite something to see fresh water gush from underground success, creating a cool and refreshing place to swim. Several tour operators offer kayaking in Celestún, but one of the more established outfits is Ecoturismo Yucatán, owned by the husband and wife team of Alfonso Escobedo and Roberta Graham. Their team offers exceptional guides, and very knowledgeable staff. Website: www.ecoyuc.com.mx.
Is it time for lunch? There are several restaurants along the beach in Celestún town proper. With views of the Bay of Campeche – the waters are a translucent shade of green and almost bathwater warm – seafood is whatever the fisherman brought in that morning. That includes lots of shrimp, octopus, along with the catch of the day.
There is also a wonderful gem nearby: Ecoparaíso, a boutique spa resort, located a short drive north. If you head over to the Ecoparaíso, you will enjoy a wonderful meal and drinks in the comfort of an enormous palapa-shaped restaurant. This resort offers full spa services, in case a massage is in order after a busy morning of holding binoculars in your hands – or paddling in your kayak! Website: www.ecoparaiso.com. Afterwards, head back to Mérida and arrive in time for – yes, you guessed it – a siesta and rest before taking on the evening.
This is a good time to continue exploring Mérida’s colonial past – or its 21st century future. By this we mean, you may want to return to the historic center and meander about, exploring the neighborhoods around Santa Lucía, Santa Ana, Mejorada or Santiago. Each church has its own history, and each neighborhood has its own vibe. If you are curious about contemporary Mérida, this might be an opportune moment to see where the city is gravitating towards: sprawl and high-tech excess. A visit to the Siglo XXI Convention Center – adjacent to two shopping malls – will give you an understanding of the ambitious Museo Maya de Mérida. This museum, whose construction was filmed by National Geographic for its “Megastructures” cable television show, is one of the anchor projects shifting the city’s cultural centers closer to the suburban communities. The Palacio de la Civilización Maya is also scheduled to open in 2012 adjacent to the new Museum. Address for both museums: Calle 60 Norte #299-E, Ex-Cordemex, Colonia Revolución. Telephone: (999) 942-1900. It’s fascinating to check out the Facebook.
And what can be said of the malls? There’s one with an ice rink – Galerías de Mérida – where Liverpool, the upscale Mexico City-based department store, is located. The one with Sears and Comercial Mexicana, on the other hand, offers a variety of goods and services for the majority of Mérida’s residents. If nothing else, a visit to these malls will give you insights into the lives of contemporary Yucatecan residents.
As for dinner, there are some lovely restaurants along Prolongación Montejo as you head back towards your hotel and B&B, or throughout the Historic Center. Make sure to ask your concierge for recommendations before heading out – either to the historic center or towards the Siglo XXI Convention Center.
Day 6: This is a day for staying in town, or close enough to it. After breakfast, it’s time to explore the area in the western part of the historic center. Start at the City Museum, housed in the former Federal Palace of Post and Telegraphs. The post office and telegraph center were inaugurated in 1908. Address: Calle 56 #529-A, between Calle 65 and 65-A Street. This museum has an extensive collection of artifacts and exhibitions that document the city’s history on the ground level. The upper floors house rotating exhibitions of artwork by contemporary Yucatecan artists. The museum is free and open every day, except Monday.
Across the street is the historic central market, one of the largest such markets remaining in Mexico. A virtual labyrinth of stalls and buildings, this is the kind of market that evokes the Maya tradition. After visiting ancient Maya ceremonial centers, it’s not difficult to imagine being transported back in time a thousand years when the similar market stalls and vendors – selling honey, fruits, vegetables, spices, meats, textiles, jade, cacao beans, feathers, salt, animals, hides, pottery and everything else imaginable – were installed at Uxmal or Chichén Itzá. For many visitors it is a revelation to see a market of this size, with Maya vendors going back and forth, Yucateca Maya being spoken nearly as much as Spanish. Others are fascinated by the sheer variety of products – from tomatoes grown in the backyards of small villages near Mérida, to butter imported from New Zealand. There is a Municipal Artisanal Market, called Lucas de Gálvez, which may be of interest, one block south of the City Museum.
When you are ready, head three blocks north back to Calle 59, then west, walking towards Mejorada Park, which is often neglected by most visitors. Mejorada Park is dominated by a large statue honoring the “Niños Héroes,” who are remembered for sacrificing themselves protecting Chapultepec Castle in Mexico City during the American military occupation of the nation’s capital. There are two museums worth a quick visit. One is the Yucatán Museum of National Folk Art, located at Calle 50-A #487 on the corner of Calle 57. This museum houses more than 1,800 pieces of Mexican Folk Art, with an emphasis on folk art from the Yucatán. A visit here is all the more reason to appreciate what the offerings at the Casa de Cultura Banamex and 100% Mexico. The other museum is the Museum of the Yucatecan Song, located on Calle 57 #464, corner of Calle 48. Trova is the music more closely associated with the Yucatán and there is a rich history of composers, musicians and singers from Mérida who have contributed to Mexico’s repertoire of music. The museum houses memorabilia from such well-known and renowned artists as Ricardo Palmerin, Guty Cárdenas, Armando Manzanero, Pastor Cervera and Juan Acereto, among others. If the names don’t ring a bell, their music will probably do!
One thing to do – which almost no one does – is walk around the corner and visit the Architecture School. Why? Since the school is housed in a former convent, one of the most spectacular colonial buildings in Mérida. The former “Convento de la Mejorada” – located on Calle 50 between Calle 57 and 59 Street – is a work of art, with its magnificent courtyard and then the multi-storied structure, which dates back to the early 1600s. Although it is a school, and not technically opened to the public, during regular hours it’s possible to stroll in and take a look around. On the third floor is the architectural library which is open to everyone (and a great resource for finding information on specific houses or buildings in town; many expatriates enjoy learning the history of their homes). The Convento de la Mejorada served as the principal hospital during the city’s early life, where the wounded were tended to after the many and frequent skirmishes between the Spanish and the Maya as the Spanish moved eastward across the peninsula. Indeed, the former military barracks on Calle 59 between Calle 50 and Calle 48 is now a center for children’s activities and school programs.
Time for lunch? There are several choices: on the western side of Mejorada Park are two well-established eateries. One is a Spanish restaurant, Mesón del Segoviano, and the other is a Yucatecan one, Los Almendros (website: www.restaurantelosalmendros.com.mx). Another option is lunch at the nearby Hacienda Misné. Take a short taxi ride and you will be amazed that, after driving through nondescript working-class neighborhoods, you enter a compound that is an oasis. The Hacienda Misné has an exceptional restaurant, and it is a remarkable spot in the middle of this busy urban center. Website: www.haciendamisne.com.mx. Indulge in a leisurely lunch, and then head back for a nap or a rest or an afternoon swim.
If it’s a Thursday, Friday or Saturday, an evening activity to consider is to head over to La 68, located near Santiago Park (corner of Calle 68 and Calle 55), Centro. (It’s proper name is Casa Cultural Elena Poniatowska.) With an open-air art-house cinema, it also has a charming shop that concentrates on sustainable and recycled products. The film schedule is eclectic, and one of the best things is that they serve meals and drinks during shows. Rather than having popcorn and a soft drink, why not have a gourmet pizza and a glass of wine? The building itself is worth a visit, its colonial charm shabbily restored, and a good number of expatriate and Mexican hipsters hang out. Website: www.la68.com.
Another option to explore is an evening of fine wines and a gourmet meal, there are two places for that. One is Trotters, on Circuito Colonia near Prolongación Montejo; and the other is Local 3, which features renowned local chefs and wine selections made by trained sommaliers. (The website for Trotters is www.trottersmerida.com and the Facebook for Local 3 is www.facebook.com/pages/Local-3-Bistro-Mexicano/178064312211018). An entire gastronomic evening, on the other hand, can be yours by making arrangements for dinner at the Hacienda Teya, a short drive from the Historic Center. Renowned for hosting visiting dignitaries, from Queen Sofía of Spain to Secretary of State Hilary Clinton, the Hacienda Teya has an excellent kitchen, and they are authoritative in pairing meals with wines, tequilas and mescals. Go for it, for a memorable evening. Website: www.haciendateya.com.
After the open-air cinema, or a culinary adventure with wine – or both, head back for a well-deserved rest after an exceptional day in Mérida.
Day 7: This is a good day to recollect your thoughts over breakfast. Is there something you wanted to buy at the Eco-Museo del Cacao and regret no having done so? (The Eco-Museo del Cacao’s merchandise is available at the Casa del Chocolate, Calle 59 #572-A, between Calle 72 and 74 Street, Centro.) Have you loaded up on Ki Xocolatl’s award-winning chocolate? (They have two shops: Downtown at Calle 55 #513, between Calle 60 and 62 Street; Uptown: Calle 49 #215 by Calle 32, Local 17, Colonia San Antonio Cucul.) Additionally, their chocolates are available at Rosas & Xocolatl on Paseo Montejo – their website is www.rosasandxocolate.com – as well as at the Casa del Chocolate. Have you had a chance to buy something from an up-and-coming Mexican artist or artisan? (Drop by Peregrina on Paseo de Montejo, and while you’re at it, stroll over to Tataya Gallery and 100% Mexico for one more tempting visit.) If you’re not sure what to take home, consider meandering through the tourist-boutiques on the ground-level shopping center of the Fiesta Americana, which has a good number of shops selling sun dresses (huipiles), men’s guayabera shirts and Mexican silver.
That doesn’t mean there isn’t a great deal left to do. After a hearty breakfast, it’s time for an archaeological adventure – one that’s close by. Dzibilchaltún is about 12 miles north of Mérida, an easy trip. The name means “writing on the stones” – and there are a lot of carvings! It’s a great archaeological site to visit in the morning, wandering around the open spaces and imagining what life must have been like for the approximately 2,000 years it was occupied (settled around 500 B.C. it remained inhabited until the arrival of the Europeans around 1540). It is believed that at its height, Dzibilchaltún was home to about 40,000 people, making it one of the largest metropolitan areas in New World. The Temple of the Seven Dolls (also known as the Temple of the Sun) is the center of the site, and the temple is characterized by sac-bés (white limestone elevated roads) that connected Dzibilchaltún to nearby communities in antiquity.
There is a lovely, modern Museum of the Maya People nearby, which tells the history of the Yucatec Maya from their arrival on the peninsula – technically known as the “Northern Maya Lowlands” – to the present time. Much of what is known about the site was a result of the pioneering work of E. Wyllis Andrews, an archaeologist whose work is closely linked to the field of Maya studies in this part of the peninsula.
There are two other reasons for visiting Dzbilchaltún: It’s possible to head to Xlacah, which has a wonderful cenote (sink hole) for a late morning swim; and should you prefer a round of golf, there’s the Yucatan Country Club nearby, where visitors, who have made reservations, are welcome to play a round of golf. (The Yucatan Country Club is a gated community, and is becoming one of the more exclusive places where foreigners and well-heeled Mexicans from Mexico City and Guadalajara are purchasing retirement homes and investment properties.) Website: www.yucatancountry.com.
Regardless of your preferences, taking a swim in a cenote or playing a round of golf (or both), it will soon be time for lunch – and perhaps a massage. As you head back towards Mérida, you are advised to have lunch at the Hacienda Xcanatun. One of the most beautiful haciendas within a short distance of Mérida, lunch is a wonderful affair. Their spa services are exceptional, and it’s a good idea to schedule a day beforehand which can be arranged by your hotel or B&B. Website: www.xcanatun.com.
By the time all this concludes, it will probably be mid-afternoon, and the Yucatecan ritual of returning for an afternoon rest is in order. This will help solidify your plans for your final evening in town. What will it be? A quiet, simple meal over drinks? An upscale restaurant for a great meal? Perhaps you may want to check out the exuberance of youth that descends on City Center, an open air shopping mall – that boasts a number of fine wine bars, and an exceptional coffee house in Café Punta del Cielo (City Center Mall, San Ramón Norte, Tel. 999-913-9090.) Or maybe this is the time when you do get those last-minute gifts, and prepare for tomorrow’s departure.
Departure: Was yesterday really your last day in Mérida? If it was, you might be on the first flight to Houston or Mexico City, or you might be on the last flight out – or free to drive out at your discretion. That means you may have enough time for breakfast, or half a day, or almost an entire day. If you are in town for half a day, then this is a great opportunity to visit some of the areas of town that give you a glimpse into the daily lives of Mérida’s people. A visit to the Parque de la Americas in Colonia García Ginerés is worthwhile. There is a children’s library, a children’s playground and an elementary school nearby, giving you a glimpse into family life in Mérida. The park itself is an Art Deco-inspired tribute to Maya aesthetics and charming. Another area of interest is the new zoo, the Animaya. Clever name, right? It’s a great zoo, a short taxi ride away, and it affords the visitor with an up-close opportunity to interact with Mexican families – their well-behaved and charming children in tow – as they have fun at the zoo. You are bound to walk away with as many photographs of young Maya families as you are of the zoo’s residents.
If you are heading out of Mérida south, a stop in Campeche is recommended: its historic center has been faithfully restored, and it is a wonderful opportunity to learn about the legacy of pirates – and how pirates raided this fortress city. Campeche is such a gem that it is becoming a “hot” destination for the uber-hip. (Did you miss Katy Perry and Russell Brand’s tweets from Campeche in the summer 2011?) If you are headed east, towards Cancún, a brief two-hour stop in Izamal is recommended before continuing onto the toll highway that will whisk you to the Maya Riviera. A week has passed, and you have only begun to explore – and delight in – Mérida.
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